مكيكان
19-10-2003, 06:42 AM
شوف هذا واحد سأل summitracing عن تعديل الموستنق
السؤال
I am interested in modifying my stock 5.0L Mustang. I would like to know where to start for a mild build and where to end if I really wanted to get nuts, and anything in between. I know this is a tall order and I would appreciate any manufacturer's part numbers you could provide along the way. The car is a 1989 with the factory EFI and mass air. The transmission is a 5 speed, I am planning on keeping the car and want to do things as correctly as possible. <<
الجواب :D
This is a tall order, but lets get started. The following outline is a suggested order of modifications to your 1989 Mustang. I would point out that any 1986 to 93 5.0L Mustang would fall into this scheme of things with the exception of the earlier years which should be converted from Speed Density to Mass Air before any serious mods are considered. Those who have started to modify can refer to this to see if they have followed the sequence, if not, by following the outline they can be brought up to date and be sure they have not missed anything in the development of their project. You stated in your inquiry “anything from mild to wild” and I will make every attempt to cover this for you, but I need for you to consider some things that you did not mention in your inquiry. I do not want to assume anything; is the vehicle subject to emissions testing “E-check”; are you completely stock; will the money spent yield the performance goals you want to achieve? Having said that, now lets start:
* Mass Air, which I already mentioned, FMS-M9000A51 manual trans; FMS-M9000B50 automatic trans, got to have it.
* Cat-Back Exhaust, sound and “legal” performance. Lays the foundation for future improvements, BBK-, FLO-, EDL-, PSM-, WLK-, and others.
* Rear End Gears, torque multiplication and acceleration, 5 speed approximately 3.55:1 to 4.10:1; automatic approximately 3.73:1 to 4.30:1. RMG-420931, FMS-M4209-F355, RMG-4901041, FMS-M4209-F373, RMG-6903101, FMS-M4209-G410, RMG-6903761, FMS-M4209-G430, don’t forget the necessities for installation.
* Underdrive Pulleys and Dress-Up items, can be considered optional but this is an appropriate place to introduce them, reduces parasitic drag, frees up some ponies. MCH-1000, FMS-M8509-A50, ASP-820125, HYP-3064 and others. If you choose valve covers for dress and/or function be sure to stay EFI compatible. Dress up to your hearts content, but purchase the right parts based on your future plans, too many parts and manufacturers to mention.
* Computer Chip or Module, along with a thermostat change where needed. Yields a definite performance improvement, brings air-fuel/timing/rpm together along with other options. HYP-, JET-, there are a few others that we do not carry. Note: as you head towards the wilder end of things such as cylinder heads, aggressive camshaft, larger mass air, upper/lower intake and/or bigger injectors you begin to move away from aftermarket “off the shelf” programming towards custom programming. Generally, just one of these larger power producers will not necessitate a custom chip or programmer, but the more of them you use the more likely you are to need custom programming.
* Cold Air kit/Ram Air kit, performance and looks. Air flow and air inlet temperature improvements, SUM-23800, MOR-65847, MCH-1410, KNN-57-2502, BBK-1557 and many others.
* Fuel Pressure Regulator, performance enhancement and tuning aid. More than likely the car is lean by now, you will probably be turning the pressure up 1 or 2 pounds over factory. When using a regulator as a tuning aid keep the pressure adjustment at 4 or 5 pounds either side of factory if using OE injectors. This piece is generally considered non-emission, be sure to check, CRN-99471-1, BBK-1706, PAX-8001692, HYP-4012, AEI-13103, there are more of these on the market than listed here.
* Throttle Body, performance from enhanced airflow and metering. Use a 65mm or 70mm with stock or most stock type manifolds, a 75mm is more radical and may require port matching depending on the manifold. 65mm EDL-3824, BBK-1517, FMS-M9926-A302; 70mm HLY-112-500, EDL-3825, BBK-1501; 75mm EDL-3826, BBK-1503. There are 80mm and larger units available but I’m not going there, be sure to get the correct EGR plate for the throttle body/intake manifold you are using, a 1, 2 or 3 pound bump in fuel pressure will probably be needed. Per above, be sure to keep an eye on the total pressure increase.
* In-Tank Fuel Pump, by now you are ready or soon will be ready for more fuel delivery and supply. The stock pump moves 88 LPH make the move to a 190 LPH pump, SUM-250102, HLY-12-901, FMS-M9407-C50, BBK-1606.
* Headers and H or X Pipe, okay, more performance to go with the previous cat back system. I have to tell you up front to be sure and stay emissions correct; emission friendly/computer friendly shorties will be a nice bang for the buck. If you use an H or X pipe be sure to use a catalytic converter unit that is emission certified/approved. Now if you are off road only-never to be operated on a public road or highway use a traditional long tube primary header and an off road style H or X pipe without catalytic converters, these will get you started: HOK-6129, FMS-M9430-SSC, BBK-1515, BIG-12106, HED-88600, EDL-6845 and many others.
* Suspension-Traction, here’s an area where you can get lost. The modern Mustang has more options and components available than any other car produced (sorry F bodies), full K members, coil over conversions, control arms, lift bars, traction bars, bushing kits, sub frame connectors, shocks-struts, springs, strut tower braces, the list of parts and manufacturers goes on and on. I am not going to address every possible combination/application for your car’s potential at this time; my primary concern here is to make you aware of the weak link that has to be addressed whether you go racing, street friendly, straight or left and right curve and that is the factory torque box. This box from the factory is barely adequate for the 5.0L GT performance level, as soon as some serious modifications and performance levels are achieved you will have to address this shortcoming. We offer an adjustable torque box through South Side Machine, SSM-9031 and there are others on the market. You can also do your own improvements in this area with some foresight and steel plate, welding/fabrication required.
* Ignition, more bang for combustion, needed by now because of the increased air and fuel. Here again looking ahead to what the final plans are can save time and money, naturally aspirated-bottle fed–forced induction, options for upgrades as you go, RPM timers, adjustable curves, boost compensators, timing retard, don’t forget cap and rotor, coils, wires, harnesses and the central ignition box itself. Some thoughts: HLY-800-100, JAC-372415, MSD-6200, MSD-6420, MSD-6462, ACC-49326, MAA-697, CRN-6000-6420, most of these have additional options or add ons for specific applications and usage. --- Up to this point I have asked you to keep the whole picture of your performance package in mind, from here on out it is critical. These are the serious power adding modifications, they require forethought and proper planning, they are often in-depth and intertwined with each other. Failure to plan accordingly will deliver only so-so performance; plan properly and you’ll be rewarded with extreme performance and the best bang for your buck.
* Nitrous, N2O, the Juice, Bottle Fed, most people will tell you that with the proper precautions a factory 5.0L can run up to 150HP, I personally would trim this a little and consider a 125HP shot of juice as the max. Kits are available in adjustable or nonadjustable, dry or wet. Do your homework here and if you choose nitrous be sure to follow the manufacturer’s directions to the letter. Entry level; Stage I, fixed, nonadjustable dry 75HP system NOS-05115. Upgrade kit for Stage I, adjustable dry 75 to 150HP system NOS-0015, turns a Stage I into a Stage II system. These are the only kits I will mention at this time. I will tell you there are a wide range of kits available and many of these are available with 50 State Emission Approval, be sure to check.
* Supercharger, can you say squeeze, even at low pressure levels you get a serious HP and torque improvement. I will cover centrifugals only since most Mustangers prefer to stay under the hood. The basic kits usually start with 6 psi. and include what you need for this level of performance. The more aggressive performance levels usually squeeze around 9 psi. of pressure and will include a more formidable package of accessories. Expect about 70 to 100+ HP depending on the unit of choice, VOR-4FA218-048S, PAX-1001800, FMS-M6066-A50, PWA-K10170-101. Again, be sure to plan ahead, do your homework and always follow the manufacturer’s directions. At this point I will not recommend pulley changes for increased pressure.
* Camshaft and Valvetrain, here is the heart and lungs of your 5.0L. Again I have to ask; are you staying computer friendly, do you have to pass an emissions test. Be prepared to answer some questions on cam selection; automatic or 5 speed, tire diameter/gear ratio; what are your plans for compression ratio, piston, cylinder heads, intake, application? Get the cam, lifters (if needed), springs-retainers-locks to match the cam selection and the timing set that will be correct for your intentions. Aftermarket rocker arms can free up some friction ponies, reduce stem and guide wear and lower oil temperatures, give them serious thought. All 1985 and up 5.0L HO motors use a hydraulic roller lifter/camshaft, unless you are going beyond wild I would advise you to continue using one. Some thoughts, keep overlap at a minimum by using a larger lobe separation angle like 112, 114, stay with moderate durations like 230, 232 or 234 @ .050 at the most. Camshafts: FMS-M6250-E303, FMS-M6250-B303, FMS-M6250-F303, FMS-M6250-X303, CRN-444231, CCA-355108, TFS-51402000, TFS5142001, and others. Timing set: FMS-M6268-A302, roller chain, 3 piece steel, multi-index, one of the best available. Rockers arms, needle bearing/roller tip, adjustable 3/8 in. stud mount, factory 1.6:1 ratio is all I will cover, here’s a sampling: CRN-36750-16, TFS-51400510, FMS-M6564-A351. If you use a roller rocker you will need tall valve covers for valve train clearance, tall valve covers generally require a phenolic spacer between the upper and lower for clearance (watch your hood). There are some sweet 5/16 in. bolt down rockers available for the factory cylinder heads, though I will not mention specifics here.
* Cylinder Heads, hopefully you have planned for these along the way, aluminum or cast iron, improved air/fuel flow and velocity. Options for valvetrain, valve size, displacement/volume, compression ratio and RPM operating range, o-ring for higher cylinder pressures, yea baby! TFS-51400002, TFS51400003, EDL-60329, EDL-60349, EDL-60229, EDL-60249, WRL-053030-1, WRL-023030-2, BRO-ST50, HLY-300551-1. There are many others that are unmentioned. Always research the installation first, check on special clearances, port locations, valve size and component compatibility. What are the recommended components for the particular installation, where will your compression ratio end up and how much is too much for the application? * Upper and Lower Intake, Larger Throttle Body, improved airflow and velocity to the intake valve. Match the RPM range of the manifold to the application and the intended use. Look for balanced distribution to all eight cylinders, the factory upper and lower inherently cheat a couple of the cylinders of their air/fuel charge. TFS-51500001, TFS-51511001, EDL-3821, EDL-7126, FMS-M9424-D51, TFS51500002, TFS-51511002, needless to say there are many others however these are a sampling of street and street-strip choices. I touched on throttle bodies earlier and I will briefly address them again. If you have not improved the throttle body by now then you are definitely ready for the improvement, if you have already improved the throttle body hopefully you were planning all along to reach this performance level. At this level the 70 or 75mm unit should be what you are considering. Although the 65mm will take you a long way, at this level it will probably be a bottleneck on your performance. Again, 70mm HLY-112-500, EDL-3825, BBK-1501; 75mm EDL-3826, BBK-1503. Be sure to get the correct EGR plate for the throttle body/intake manifold you are using.
* Larger Mass Air/Fuel Injectors/Fuel Rails, more metering and fuel delivery. For mass air I personally have to go with the Vortech MAF sensor, it is 73mm and the sample tubes can be changed to match the fuel injector size: VOR-8A101-021 (19 lb.), VOR-8A101-022 (24 lb.), VOR-8A101-023 (30 lb.) These are all that I will mention for the performance levels discussed. The factory injectors (19 lb.) will handle out to about 225-235HP using Ford’s duty cycle, a more realistic figure would be 215-225HP. Somewhere around 245-255HP up to about 310-320 a 24lb. injector should be used, at or near the 400HP level up to about 420-430HP the 30lb. injector would be required. Bear in mind the criteria for this formula will vary within each injector range, and for the sake of convenience I touched only on the Ford injector sizes: FMS-M9593-C302 (19 lb.), FMS-M9593-A302 (24 lb.), FMS-M9593-B302 (30 lb.). Accel and Vortech also do correct injectors for the 5.0L and offer more options for injector size. The factory fuel rails may become a limiting factor around the horsepower per cubic inch range. Some thoughts on fuel rails are AEI-14101 (rails only), AEI-14102 (complete kit), MAA-4303M (rails only), MAA-4306M (complete kit). General Guidelines for HP: 215HP; most factory 5.0L HO Mustangs 280-300HP; 9.5:1 compression, well prepared stock heads or aftermarket with 1.94 intake valve, 1 5/8 in. diameter headers, improved upper and lower intake, camshaft approx. 214/224 duration @ .050 and .440/.450 lift. Plus previously mentioned improvements for this level. Well prepped components. 340-360HP; 9.5:1 to 10.0:1 compression, aftermarket heads with 1.94 or 2.02 intake valve, 1 5/8 in. diameter headers, aftermarket intake, camshaft approx. 228/232 duration @ .050 and .450/.475 lift. Plus previously mentioned improvements for this level. Improved components. 340-385HP; approx. 10.0:1 compression, aftermarket heads with 2.02 intake valve, 1 5/8 in. diameter headers, “Hotter” aftermarket intake, camshaft approx. 234/244 duration @ .050 and .490/.510 lift. Plus previously mentioned improvements for this level. High Performance components. Beyond 400HP; 10.0:1 compression or better, well prepared aftermarket heads or purpose built heads with 2.02 or bigger intake valve, headers 1 5/8 in. minimum on the primary tube, improved aftermarket or purpose built upper and lower intake, serious camshaft approx. 248/252 or larger duration @ .050 and over .520 in. lift. Plus previously mentioned improvements for this level. Serious High Performance components, the “best” of everything.
* Closing Notes: this is ONLY an outline or guide of some of the possibilities that exist for 5.0L Mustang and is not an attempt to be all inclusive or exhaustive in its scope. Always check your parts for application and specifics, leave nothing to chance. And, if there is one thing I want you to glean from this it is to plan ahead and know where you are headed in your quest for performance. Good Luck, SRE